Hey all,
Just wanted to write you a quick note and let you know that I'm back in the states after an over 40 hour journey. I'm now in Boston, hanging out for a few days with my dad and brother, celebrating todd's 21st birthday. My final couple of weeks in Africa were amazing, and were filled with many goodbyes, farewells and see you later's. I was reminded how horrible I am at goodbyes, and just how much I will miss all of the people and places I've come to know. The group I went over with were my family while I was there, and I am really going to miss their daily presence in my life. The last day before we left we all went out snorkeling and swimming, and for one last lunch together on our sandbank. On the way out to the snorkeling spot, we spotted a few dolphins swimming alongside our boat off in the distance. Needless to say, it was pretty much a perfect way to end our trip, and reminded me again at how fortunate I've been to have this opportunity. Once I get home I'll be able to post a bunch of pictures, but for now, I'm signing off. Thanks to all of those who followed me through my journey, your support is appreciated more than you know.
thanks all,
laila
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Friday, May 2, 2008
TIA
Hey all,
Just thought I'd drop you a quick note and give you a little update. For the past week or so I've been living at that community arts center, called Creative Solutions, which empowers citizens through skill developement. Its been a great experience and I've gotten the opportunity to do many things including: teaching English and computer classes, weaving baskets, working on an outdoor glass mosaic, and just helping out around the house in general. Tomorrow I'll paint a room I think. Its really great and I've been living there with another volunteer from Germany named Mandy who is a lovely girl. The woman who started Creative Solutions with her husband is named Aida (formerly Alice) Ayers, an African American woman native to Nevada/New Mexico, who moved to Zanzibar about 15 years ago. She married a Zanzibari native, Mbarouk, who is actually originally from the neighborhood in Stone Town where I live. They are amazing people, and living out on their farm and working has been extremely gratifying. I was planning on maybe making a trip up to Arusha, but now plan to stay to work another week. In addition to the daily ins and outs, I've been able to do a great deal of my own art, which has been great, as I haven't been able to do much in the last few years. It was pole pole (slow) at first, but now the art is pouring out of me, and I'm very grateful. Mbarouk is an awesome cook, and I've become well versed in Zanzibari cuisine, which is amazing! Today I am in Stone Town and will go to another wedding here, of the daughter of our Kiswahili teacher, Bi Asia. Tomorrow I will head back out to the farm/community center, located in Mangapwani, about an hour's dala dala ride from town. Today on the way into town we got stopped by the police, and then there was a lot of shouting, and our driver got fingerprinted. To add insult to injury, later on the ride in, we got side swiped by another dala dala, and I just got out and walked the rest of the way into town. As the catch phrase of the Creative Solutions home goes, "TIA", This Is Africa.
Today marks two weeks left in this insane trip, and I'm filled with many mixed feelings. I now feel that Zanzibar is a home to me, but am very excited to come home and see everyone! Should be interesting. I'll try and write one more time before I leave.
best,
laura
Just thought I'd drop you a quick note and give you a little update. For the past week or so I've been living at that community arts center, called Creative Solutions, which empowers citizens through skill developement. Its been a great experience and I've gotten the opportunity to do many things including: teaching English and computer classes, weaving baskets, working on an outdoor glass mosaic, and just helping out around the house in general. Tomorrow I'll paint a room I think. Its really great and I've been living there with another volunteer from Germany named Mandy who is a lovely girl. The woman who started Creative Solutions with her husband is named Aida (formerly Alice) Ayers, an African American woman native to Nevada/New Mexico, who moved to Zanzibar about 15 years ago. She married a Zanzibari native, Mbarouk, who is actually originally from the neighborhood in Stone Town where I live. They are amazing people, and living out on their farm and working has been extremely gratifying. I was planning on maybe making a trip up to Arusha, but now plan to stay to work another week. In addition to the daily ins and outs, I've been able to do a great deal of my own art, which has been great, as I haven't been able to do much in the last few years. It was pole pole (slow) at first, but now the art is pouring out of me, and I'm very grateful. Mbarouk is an awesome cook, and I've become well versed in Zanzibari cuisine, which is amazing! Today I am in Stone Town and will go to another wedding here, of the daughter of our Kiswahili teacher, Bi Asia. Tomorrow I will head back out to the farm/community center, located in Mangapwani, about an hour's dala dala ride from town. Today on the way into town we got stopped by the police, and then there was a lot of shouting, and our driver got fingerprinted. To add insult to injury, later on the ride in, we got side swiped by another dala dala, and I just got out and walked the rest of the way into town. As the catch phrase of the Creative Solutions home goes, "TIA", This Is Africa.
Today marks two weeks left in this insane trip, and I'm filled with many mixed feelings. I now feel that Zanzibar is a home to me, but am very excited to come home and see everyone! Should be interesting. I'll try and write one more time before I leave.
best,
laura
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Harusi ni Pemba!
Habari!
I hope this post finds you all doing well and hopefully enjoying a nice spring. Right now I'm in Stone Town and returned yesterday from Pemba Island for my sister Hildhat's wedding. I arrived on Thursday afternoon after a bumpy (to say the least) ferry ride up from Unguja. To put it nicely, I realized what the small plastic bags that were handed out were for when everyone started to turn green in the face. Anyways, sitting at the port in Stone Town waiting for my ferry I was in a group of probably 100 people, many of whom had fresh henna and were all dressed up, and I learned later, when I got to my house in Pemba, that I was "related" to most of them. They all recognized me as the only mzungu on the ferry, and embraced me warmly as their own. When I arrived at the port in Pemba, in the city on the south end of the island called Mkoani, I survived the stampede of passengers and porters and successfully found my way to a dala dala up to Chake Chake. Upon arrival to my house, I was greeted by my family and about 50 relatives that were at my house, they were all very happy to see me and I was very excited as well. Highlights from the weekend include (but are not limited to, this is the shortlist):
-Being in a room full of women in a circle, watching the mzungu knead bread dough, and entertaining the masses. They then physically took my hands and taught me the "correct" way.
-Being introduced to my host family's oldest son Anuwar, who I'd never met because he lives in Dar, and then him telling me that he likes me and asking if I had a husband. I'm now in an unofficial arranged marriage, and was referred to by every family member that I met after that as "the one who will marry Anuwar".
-Another marriage offer by one of my neighbors for her son. Who I was told is very smart and very strong.
-Being coaxed by two 80+ year old women who were my host grandma and great aunt, into dancing with them. They know how to cut a rug.
-Approval from all of the women in my style of dance (as communicated by screams of joy), they wrapped a scarf around my waist, which is a sign that they think you dance well (shake your butt well).
-Mass food production in preparation of the wedding
-Sleeping with a girl in a twin bed who I didn't know, we introduced eachother right before we went to sleep.
-Being taken by my host aunt to her house, not knowing at all where I was going, being forced to shower and change out of one dress into another for the second part of the wedding. Then they did my makeup. I have pictures.
-Finally, we arrived at what I thought was the wedding reception, which turns out was for women only, and being dragged repeatedly to the dance floor in front of all of the guests, and dancing in front of them all.
-Transport to and from the reception venue were two dala dalas from the town of Chake Chake. Women inside, and men on the roof.
There are so many more stories that I could tell, but that would take forever. That gives you all a little taste of what I did this weekend. Saying goodbye yesterday was extremely difficult, and really made me feel like the end of our adventure is getting closer. I think that saying goodbye to my family in Pemba will be one of the hardest, if not the hardest goodbye I will have to do, besides saying goodbye to my fellow students. I'm reminded again that I am horrible at goodbyes! I can't imagine never seeing my family here again, and have promised myself that I must return one day to visit.
I will now go live at a art community center/house for about a week or so to volunteer and teach some art/work in the gardens/do anything i can do to help. Next Friday, the whole group of students will go to the wedding here in Stone Town, of the daughter of one of our Kiswahili teachers, Bi Asia. A group of us are then thinking about going up to Northern Tanzania, near Arusha, to check out the Ngorogoro Crater area. I'm not sure if I will go or not, depending on if I get my research project done this week with my paper written and all. Hope you made it to the end of this long post well! Thanks for reading!
best,
laura
I hope this post finds you all doing well and hopefully enjoying a nice spring. Right now I'm in Stone Town and returned yesterday from Pemba Island for my sister Hildhat's wedding. I arrived on Thursday afternoon after a bumpy (to say the least) ferry ride up from Unguja. To put it nicely, I realized what the small plastic bags that were handed out were for when everyone started to turn green in the face. Anyways, sitting at the port in Stone Town waiting for my ferry I was in a group of probably 100 people, many of whom had fresh henna and were all dressed up, and I learned later, when I got to my house in Pemba, that I was "related" to most of them. They all recognized me as the only mzungu on the ferry, and embraced me warmly as their own. When I arrived at the port in Pemba, in the city on the south end of the island called Mkoani, I survived the stampede of passengers and porters and successfully found my way to a dala dala up to Chake Chake. Upon arrival to my house, I was greeted by my family and about 50 relatives that were at my house, they were all very happy to see me and I was very excited as well. Highlights from the weekend include (but are not limited to, this is the shortlist):
-Being in a room full of women in a circle, watching the mzungu knead bread dough, and entertaining the masses. They then physically took my hands and taught me the "correct" way.
-Being introduced to my host family's oldest son Anuwar, who I'd never met because he lives in Dar, and then him telling me that he likes me and asking if I had a husband. I'm now in an unofficial arranged marriage, and was referred to by every family member that I met after that as "the one who will marry Anuwar".
-Another marriage offer by one of my neighbors for her son. Who I was told is very smart and very strong.
-Being coaxed by two 80+ year old women who were my host grandma and great aunt, into dancing with them. They know how to cut a rug.
-Approval from all of the women in my style of dance (as communicated by screams of joy), they wrapped a scarf around my waist, which is a sign that they think you dance well (shake your butt well).
-Mass food production in preparation of the wedding
-Sleeping with a girl in a twin bed who I didn't know, we introduced eachother right before we went to sleep.
-Being taken by my host aunt to her house, not knowing at all where I was going, being forced to shower and change out of one dress into another for the second part of the wedding. Then they did my makeup. I have pictures.
-Finally, we arrived at what I thought was the wedding reception, which turns out was for women only, and being dragged repeatedly to the dance floor in front of all of the guests, and dancing in front of them all.
-Transport to and from the reception venue were two dala dalas from the town of Chake Chake. Women inside, and men on the roof.
There are so many more stories that I could tell, but that would take forever. That gives you all a little taste of what I did this weekend. Saying goodbye yesterday was extremely difficult, and really made me feel like the end of our adventure is getting closer. I think that saying goodbye to my family in Pemba will be one of the hardest, if not the hardest goodbye I will have to do, besides saying goodbye to my fellow students. I'm reminded again that I am horrible at goodbyes! I can't imagine never seeing my family here again, and have promised myself that I must return one day to visit.
I will now go live at a art community center/house for about a week or so to volunteer and teach some art/work in the gardens/do anything i can do to help. Next Friday, the whole group of students will go to the wedding here in Stone Town, of the daughter of one of our Kiswahili teachers, Bi Asia. A group of us are then thinking about going up to Northern Tanzania, near Arusha, to check out the Ngorogoro Crater area. I'm not sure if I will go or not, depending on if I get my research project done this week with my paper written and all. Hope you made it to the end of this long post well! Thanks for reading!
best,
laura
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
Paje Life
Hello,
Hope all is well in the States, or wherever this post finds you all. For the last week and a half, I've been living on the eastern coast of Unguja, in the village of Paje, working on my idependent study project that is the finale of this semester. My research topic is beach erosion (mmomonyoko, when mispronounced, means butt, found that one out the hard way), specifically beach erosion as a result of global warming, and how the village is dealing with it. Pretty much, myself and four other students are living in a sweet house right on the beach, and I walk down the beach and talk to people in broken Kiswaenglish, as we've begun to call it. My language is definitely improving, as I use it often in such a rural setting. The time when we're not doing our specified research, we pass by cooking (we have a kitchen!!!!!!!) real food, reading reading reading, and playing lots and lots of cards, as fantasizing about what our first meal will be when we get back. My only request is something with cheese, preferably without rice or beans. Also I want a mountain dew in a real way. Anyways, today I'm in Stone Town for the day, about an hour's dala dala commute, doing internet stuff and running errands. Next thursday I will leave Unguja by ferry and go up to Pemba island for my homestay sister's wedding. I have no idea what this will entail, but will surely get lots of blog time I'm sure. It rained hard all night and into the morning, but is now sunny and hot. Go figure.
Today marks one month left here, and everyday I grow more and more aware of that. I've already had to say goodbye to a couple of my good Zanzibari friends who have left for some work up in Arusha and Kenya. I haven't quite figured out how to balance being insanely excited to get home and see friends and family, and to leave the people here who have become my new friends and new family. I'm sure it will prove to be another challenge, but a good one to face.
more later,
laura
Hope all is well in the States, or wherever this post finds you all. For the last week and a half, I've been living on the eastern coast of Unguja, in the village of Paje, working on my idependent study project that is the finale of this semester. My research topic is beach erosion (mmomonyoko, when mispronounced, means butt, found that one out the hard way), specifically beach erosion as a result of global warming, and how the village is dealing with it. Pretty much, myself and four other students are living in a sweet house right on the beach, and I walk down the beach and talk to people in broken Kiswaenglish, as we've begun to call it. My language is definitely improving, as I use it often in such a rural setting. The time when we're not doing our specified research, we pass by cooking (we have a kitchen!!!!!!!) real food, reading reading reading, and playing lots and lots of cards, as fantasizing about what our first meal will be when we get back. My only request is something with cheese, preferably without rice or beans. Also I want a mountain dew in a real way. Anyways, today I'm in Stone Town for the day, about an hour's dala dala commute, doing internet stuff and running errands. Next thursday I will leave Unguja by ferry and go up to Pemba island for my homestay sister's wedding. I have no idea what this will entail, but will surely get lots of blog time I'm sure. It rained hard all night and into the morning, but is now sunny and hot. Go figure.
Today marks one month left here, and everyday I grow more and more aware of that. I've already had to say goodbye to a couple of my good Zanzibari friends who have left for some work up in Arusha and Kenya. I haven't quite figured out how to balance being insanely excited to get home and see friends and family, and to leave the people here who have become my new friends and new family. I'm sure it will prove to be another challenge, but a good one to face.
more later,
laura
Friday, April 4, 2008
More pictures, finally
Hey all,
It has been raining (no, pouring) here for the last week or soon. We're in the middle of the heavy monsoon season, and they don't mess around here with rain! Here are the promised pictures. Enjoy!
Laura
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/home
It has been raining (no, pouring) here for the last week or soon. We're in the middle of the heavy monsoon season, and they don't mess around here with rain! Here are the promised pictures. Enjoy!
Laura
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/home
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
Tanzanian Life
Hey all,
So I've mentally compiled a list of things I've come to appreciate/adapt to/love/loathe here in Tanzania, and would like to share it with anyone who is willing to listen (read). If you're ever thinking of coming here, here is a list of things you might want to consider before doing so.
1. Spotty to non-existent electrcity and water: This one pretty much explains itself. Lets just say that I've been in every situation imaginable while the power has shorted out. Also, power is so scare here that periodically power is shut off for a few hours systematically throughout the country. So on Thursday nights in Pemba from 6-11, we sit outside and watch the stars. This has its advantages and disadvantages.
2. Dala dala rides: I don't know if I've explained what a dala dala is yet, but imagine a 15 passenger van with 25-30 people in it, and you've pretty much got it. Sometimes its a truck bed with a cover over it. This is the public transportation here, and I've really come to love it. To travel all the way up to the Northern tip of Unguja for example, which is a good hour long ride, is about 60 cents. For as undeveloped of a country as Tanzania, they've got transportation figured out.
3. Fear factor meals. I've mentioned this before, but its a big part of my day so I included it. Joe Rogan, eat your heart out.
4. Roosters, Cats and Crows: At any time of the day you can hear one, if not all of these animals making noise here. All are annoying, I will not miss any of them, but when I think of Tanzania, I will always remember this.
5. No clocks, but no need for them anyways: The concept of time and time management simply do not exist here. And for good reason, no schedules really exist and Zanzibaris would rather sit and have a chat with someone, rather than cut off a conversation and rush off to be somewhere on time.
6. No desserts/any satisfying sugar products: Self-explanatory, but something I needed to mention. Fake Cadbury chocolate is the closest thing here, and to us, its pretty darn good.
7. Eating with my hands: This is one thing I've actually come to really enjoy about this place, and something I've found myself totally used to. Example, last night we went to dinner, and as soon as my curry and rice arrived, I started eating it with my hands. I was then told by my friend Alya, that my silverware was right there on the table.
8. No toilet paper: Yep. No comment, other than I now understand why everyone only eats with their right hand now.
9. Language tests daily: While most people here are impressed with how much Swahili we can speak, not a day goes by where I'm not tested by someone on my language skills. This is more annoying than anything else, but at least my language is improving.
10. Tanzanian way of life: In general, Tanzanians are great. They are different in Americans in many ways, probably the most noticeable way is their work ethic here. Walking down the street in the middle of the day, men line the alleys and courtyards, hanging out, talking, with nothing to do and nowhere to be. I think its rubbed off on me.
I really do love this country and can't wait to get back to the States and share my experience with you all. I feel so fortunate to have gotten this experience, and am going to savor every day until the bittersweet end of my journey.
laura
So I've mentally compiled a list of things I've come to appreciate/adapt to/love/loathe here in Tanzania, and would like to share it with anyone who is willing to listen (read). If you're ever thinking of coming here, here is a list of things you might want to consider before doing so.
1. Spotty to non-existent electrcity and water: This one pretty much explains itself. Lets just say that I've been in every situation imaginable while the power has shorted out. Also, power is so scare here that periodically power is shut off for a few hours systematically throughout the country. So on Thursday nights in Pemba from 6-11, we sit outside and watch the stars. This has its advantages and disadvantages.
2. Dala dala rides: I don't know if I've explained what a dala dala is yet, but imagine a 15 passenger van with 25-30 people in it, and you've pretty much got it. Sometimes its a truck bed with a cover over it. This is the public transportation here, and I've really come to love it. To travel all the way up to the Northern tip of Unguja for example, which is a good hour long ride, is about 60 cents. For as undeveloped of a country as Tanzania, they've got transportation figured out.
3. Fear factor meals. I've mentioned this before, but its a big part of my day so I included it. Joe Rogan, eat your heart out.
4. Roosters, Cats and Crows: At any time of the day you can hear one, if not all of these animals making noise here. All are annoying, I will not miss any of them, but when I think of Tanzania, I will always remember this.
5. No clocks, but no need for them anyways: The concept of time and time management simply do not exist here. And for good reason, no schedules really exist and Zanzibaris would rather sit and have a chat with someone, rather than cut off a conversation and rush off to be somewhere on time.
6. No desserts/any satisfying sugar products: Self-explanatory, but something I needed to mention. Fake Cadbury chocolate is the closest thing here, and to us, its pretty darn good.
7. Eating with my hands: This is one thing I've actually come to really enjoy about this place, and something I've found myself totally used to. Example, last night we went to dinner, and as soon as my curry and rice arrived, I started eating it with my hands. I was then told by my friend Alya, that my silverware was right there on the table.
8. No toilet paper: Yep. No comment, other than I now understand why everyone only eats with their right hand now.
9. Language tests daily: While most people here are impressed with how much Swahili we can speak, not a day goes by where I'm not tested by someone on my language skills. This is more annoying than anything else, but at least my language is improving.
10. Tanzanian way of life: In general, Tanzanians are great. They are different in Americans in many ways, probably the most noticeable way is their work ethic here. Walking down the street in the middle of the day, men line the alleys and courtyards, hanging out, talking, with nothing to do and nowhere to be. I think its rubbed off on me.
I really do love this country and can't wait to get back to the States and share my experience with you all. I feel so fortunate to have gotten this experience, and am going to savor every day until the bittersweet end of my journey.
laura
Sunday, March 30, 2008
Pemba: Clove Island
Salama from Stone Town,
I hope this post finds you all swimmingly. We just arrived back in Stone Town after about a 10 week trip. Most of our time was on the Northern most island of Zanzibar, Pemba, which is faaaaaaaar more rural than Unguja. I loved every second of my time on Pemba, which is an island that is dominated by farms (shambas), growing rubber, coconuts, pineapple, mangoe, cloves cloves and more cloves, lemon grass, rice, you get the point. I stayed with a family for about 6 days in the capital of Pemba, Chake Chake (on the West coast), and became very close with them. I had a house mom and dad, and 7 brothers and sisters, ranging in age from 3 to 21. It was pretty crazy, and they were very eager to teach me anything and everything that I showed the slightest interest in.
Some highlights include:
1) My house mom and dad continually force feeding me. And by force feed I mean filling and re-filling my plate constantly. I thought it was bad when I was in Russia last year, but this has been far worse (not much to complain about though). Although every meal feels a little like fear factor, in that I don't know what is going to be put in front of me, wheather it be prawns, fish heads, squid, you name it, we eat it, with our hands.
2) My sisters (5 of them) and house mom covering a large portion of my body in henna. My hands and feet are still completely covered, and I also got to to my moms, which really excited her.
3) My house dad trying to teach me anything and everything about the Engligh Premier League. His favorite team is Chelsea and he is diehard. Once I expressed initial interest in a game he was watching, it was over.
4) My house dad was the only one in the house that spoke any english, as he is a teacher of math and physics at a local school. My kiswahili was really put on the spot, and we understood eachother for the most part.
Overall it was a great stay, lots and lots of stories and sentiment that I'll spare you all. My house sister is getting married this month, and the family invited me back for the wedding, which I am going to try and find a ferry that I can take up there. We then went North to Wete for three days of farming lectures and tours, and I also went to visit a salt mine on one of my days off with an employee from the Department of the Envr. on Pemba. We spent the day riding a moped up and down the coast, it was pretty amazing. We went through one villiage where I'm certain only one of two mzungu has ever been, based on the looks I was given. It was great. We then returned to Unguja and have spent the last 3 days doing forest research and birding in the Jozani National Forest, which was great. It feels good to be back in Stone Town, and on walking to the internet I ran into my Stone Town dad and he let me know that my house mom here had a baby girl last Wednesday, so I will get to go see her tomorrow.
More soon,
Laura
I hope this post finds you all swimmingly. We just arrived back in Stone Town after about a 10 week trip. Most of our time was on the Northern most island of Zanzibar, Pemba, which is faaaaaaaar more rural than Unguja. I loved every second of my time on Pemba, which is an island that is dominated by farms (shambas), growing rubber, coconuts, pineapple, mangoe, cloves cloves and more cloves, lemon grass, rice, you get the point. I stayed with a family for about 6 days in the capital of Pemba, Chake Chake (on the West coast), and became very close with them. I had a house mom and dad, and 7 brothers and sisters, ranging in age from 3 to 21. It was pretty crazy, and they were very eager to teach me anything and everything that I showed the slightest interest in.
Some highlights include:
1) My house mom and dad continually force feeding me. And by force feed I mean filling and re-filling my plate constantly. I thought it was bad when I was in Russia last year, but this has been far worse (not much to complain about though). Although every meal feels a little like fear factor, in that I don't know what is going to be put in front of me, wheather it be prawns, fish heads, squid, you name it, we eat it, with our hands.
2) My sisters (5 of them) and house mom covering a large portion of my body in henna. My hands and feet are still completely covered, and I also got to to my moms, which really excited her.
3) My house dad trying to teach me anything and everything about the Engligh Premier League. His favorite team is Chelsea and he is diehard. Once I expressed initial interest in a game he was watching, it was over.
4) My house dad was the only one in the house that spoke any english, as he is a teacher of math and physics at a local school. My kiswahili was really put on the spot, and we understood eachother for the most part.
Overall it was a great stay, lots and lots of stories and sentiment that I'll spare you all. My house sister is getting married this month, and the family invited me back for the wedding, which I am going to try and find a ferry that I can take up there. We then went North to Wete for three days of farming lectures and tours, and I also went to visit a salt mine on one of my days off with an employee from the Department of the Envr. on Pemba. We spent the day riding a moped up and down the coast, it was pretty amazing. We went through one villiage where I'm certain only one of two mzungu has ever been, based on the looks I was given. It was great. We then returned to Unguja and have spent the last 3 days doing forest research and birding in the Jozani National Forest, which was great. It feels good to be back in Stone Town, and on walking to the internet I ran into my Stone Town dad and he let me know that my house mom here had a baby girl last Wednesday, so I will get to go see her tomorrow.
More soon,
Laura
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